Living here in Spain, sometimes people will mention other European countries in casual conversation like, “Yeah my brother used to live in Moldova...” and then I smile and nod and pretend that I know where Moldova is. But secretly I’m panicking inside because if my life depended on that information, it would be bye bye Becky.
Well I am humbled to say that Croatia was one of those countries for me. A couple of months ago, I couldn’t have pointed to it on a map. Really the only reason I went to Croatia was a work conference. And speaking of work, I was so tangled up in busyness before I left that I didn’t research a single thing. The few things I did while I was there, I left up to the planning of a friend and the structure of the work conference itself.
This is by no means an exhaustive list (you’ll need to find an Instagirl with deeper pockets for that) but these are simply the things I did in late May over 3.5 days and enjoyed :)
Flying into Split
I flew into the Split airport because that’s what all my friends were doing (make good choices, kids). It's the closest to the mainland coast and the closest to Šibenik, where I had to go for my work conference. It’s a very small and newly renovated airport, which means it was well-staffed and all the toilets worked HALLELUJAH. The Split airport is about 30 minutes from the Split city center. There are direct shuttles that probably cost 100 kuna (~12.5 euro) and buses which are cheaper (2-5 euros) but take longer to get there. Admittedly, I did not take either because I got rides with coworkers both ways.
Krka Falls National Park (30eur + cost of food)
Krka Falls is a national park about an hour northwest of Split. Of all the things I saw in Croatia, this park was my favorite. It’s not a massive park (109 sq km) but the one and a half hours of free time we had to roam around were just barely enough for my little granola heart. Honestly, the pictures speak for themselves, but it is a lusciously green park with streams, rivers, mini cascades, and mondo waterfalls. The trail winds you right through all this scrumptious nature: over creeks and under draping canopies, so close to the water that you can dip your hands in. As you walk through, you can spot frogs, ducks, and dragonflies, and you can catch views of the falls from several angles.
Unfortunately, you can no longer swim in the water under the falls. Our guide said this is because there were too many drownings. However, as you can see in the bottom right picture, there is a little spot with a mini fall where you can throw on a bathing suit and stand under the water.
Once you walk through the main stretch of the park, there's a big open space with a sit-down restaurant and stands for crepes, ice cream, and wraps. The bathrooms are also there. They cost 5 kuna (~0.75 euros) and conveniently there are bills-to-coins machines that break your bills for free. The specific tour I booked was through booking.com. It cost 20 euros, plus the park entrance fee in cash (80 kuna or ~11.5 euro). You're also allowed to pack food and bring it into the park.
Skradin
The second part of the tour was a boat ride to the (very small) town of Skradin. The ride was super smooth, but I must admit, you can’t see much if you’re seated down inside the boat. So I ended up cramming myself next to some German boys on the outer deck. (Don’t worry, mom. I didn’t give them my number…but I did think about it.) Once we got to Skradin, there was honestly not a ton to do. You could go on a wine tour, go swimming in the (very) cold water, or visit the cathedral (which is probably only open on Sundays, according to our tour guide).
Split: Old City Center
Staying in downtown Split was beautiful and super affordable. My friend and I stayed in an airbnb but several of our coworkers stayed in hotels that were also really affordable. Strolling down the marina/promenade you can eat a meal, get ice cream, go on a boat tour, or just sit with a book and take in the sun and mountains in the distance. The structure of the Old City itself is magical because it’s made up of the walled city originally built in the 3rd or 2nd century BC under Greek colonization. The walkways are literally made of marble (pro-tip: wear shoes with traction or you will slip, as I did in my fashionably traction-less sandals). There are narrow alleys winding every which way through the buildings (some of which are over 1000 years old) and restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops are tucked into every nook. If you’ve ever visited Toledo, Spain, Split reminded me a lot of that. I didn’t do one, but you can get a walking tour of the old city if you want more of the historical perspective.
Diocletian’s Palace: Basement Tour (7eur)
Diocletian’s Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of how well-preserved it is. I highly recommend the basement tour if you’re looking for a good time not a long time. As I’m writing this, I realize that it probably isn’t for everyone. There were very few signs, exhibits, or information pieces. But that’s actually what I liked: I wasn’t oversaturated with information. The signs/displays they do have are pretty transparent: “This is a fragment of a support beam we excavated. It was in this room, so we’re displaying it in this room…These are ancient construction symbols. We don’t know what they mean, but you can find them on the walls.”
Pro tip: We went on a Monday 45 minutes before they closed (~7:15pm). And when I tell you we were the only ones there...I mean it was us and the pigeons. (PS beware of pigeons hiding in the walls.)
Downtown Sibenik
Say it with me “SHEE-buh-neek.” Downtown Sibenik was like Split with its tiny winding streets embellished with lovely gardens, cafes, and views of the water, but with stairs (like a LOT of stairs) and about a thousand of the most interesting doors you’ve ever seen. (Love a good door pic). It’s smaller and less crowded than Split, since it’s farther from the airport. If you’re not renting a car, your best bet to get there is a taxi. Very good place to wander on foot with a camera and a journal.
Amadria Park resort
If you gag at the word “resort” because it’s not “authentic” enough then skip this. I had that attitude going in, but since it was a work conference, I was FORCED to stay in this resort (poor me). And it was gorgeous. The water was crystal clear, turned every shade of blue as it stretched out to the mountains, and there were so many patios/seating areas that I was almost always enjoying the view by myself. The food was yummy, the staff were kind, and the spa treatments were fab. 10/10 would do a mandatory work event there again.
TLDR: You should visit Croatia! It’s safe, very English-accessible in the cities, welcoming to tourists, and has some of the most beautiful beaches and waterfalls I’ve ever seen — all of this while being ridiculously inexpensive. Highly underrated but worth your time and money!
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